Paradigm

I have a bass amp I’d like to hook up to my stereo, but I’m told it might not help much if the stereo itself can’t take advantage of it because of its integrated amp limitations (or something like that).

The problem you have is getting just a bass signal, not the whole frequency range. You need a cross-over to seperate the lows from the mids and highs so you can get the low end boost you need. If you just hook the amp up, then you will just be making everything louder. It would help the low end a little being that it’s a bass amp, but the effect you’re looking for won’t happen like you probably want. As far as any integrated amp limitations, sounds like someone’s trying to sound like they know a little more than they really do… you can use the sterio’s signal and do whatever you want to it’s output if you buy the right equiptment.

My boyfriend just bought a plasma TV and I’d like to buy him an home theater system but I don’t have a clue where to begin. I’ve been trying to research online but it seems like there’s so many details to figure out – how many watts do I need, do I need a new DVD player with it, do I want to buy it piece by piece or HTIB? Ahhh. I’d like to spend somewhere around $200, max $300 but I don’t know if this is realistic for a good system and don’t want to get him a cruddy one just for the sake of getting one. I know he’s really interested in the ones that have a rear wireless speaker – and I don’t know too much more than that. Anyone knowledgeable out there with some good recommendations, a place I should begin my research or willing to have some dialouge with me about the best systems and what I should look for? I think I’ll eventually go to CC or BB but I’d like to be armed with some info first. Thanks ahead of time for your help!

Simply browse the top price/product comparison
websites and review sites. Here’s what I use…

H a p p y
H o m e
T h e a t e r i n g !

I want to send an audio signal via infrared and then receive it and play it through speakers (headphones).

The plan is to use some sort of ADC to convert the audio signal to digital, send the signal wirelessly, receive and clean it up using a schmitt and then a DAC to convert the signal back to an analogue one.

It will then be played through the speakers. Can anyone help with any aspect of this – particularly some possible ways to send the digital signal via infrared.

Thanks in advance.

You could use a delta-modulator instead of an adc.

The premise is, the wave is almost always changing, so send "1" if the present sample is greater than the previous sample, otherwise, send 0.

Use AM modulation to modulate 1’s onto a carrier. 56k or higher might work, then pulse the IR transmitter with 56k to send "1", leave it off to send "0".

At the other end, detect the 56k, and rectify it to generate your bitstream again.

Feed the bitstream into the direction input of an up/down counter, with a free running clock at approximately the same sample frequency.

If this method doesn’t appeal to you, try using a "parallel to serial shift register" or UART chip (16550) to turn the ADC 8 bit output to serial, and then use another matching UART or shift register at the other end tto create a parallel stream from the serial stream. No modulation required . Using a UART requires programming some registers, but can synchronize by themselves (run asynchronously) unlike the shift registers.

Got here: 2 12" Audiobahn AW1251SE subs, dual-coil, 4ohms/coil. Don’t have an amplifier yet, first need to know the answer. Want to power it with 1,2, or 4 ohm mono amp.
Each sub by itself can be connected in series for 8ohms or parallel for 2ohms load. However, only one coil on the subwoofer can also be connected, leaving another coil empty. For both subwoofers, when connected, total load will be: 1 ohm if wired parallel on sub and parallel between subs; 4ohms if wired serial on each sub and parallel between subs; 2 ohms if use only 1 coil on each sub and connect both of them in parallel. Wiring subs in serial is not recommended, so other options are out of question. Which of these ways is the best one to wire and why? I’m looking for the balance between loudness and quality, however, given choice, would choose slightly towards loudness.
Thanks for everybody’s time and special thanks to those who answer the question.
Got here: 2 12" Audiobahn AW1251SE subs, dual-coil, 4ohms/coil. Don’t have an amplifier yet, first need to know the answer. Want to power it with 1,2, or 4 ohm mono amp, with close RMS and max power to both subs.
Each sub by itself can be connected in series for 8ohms or parallel for 2ohms load. Only one coil on the subwoofer can also be connected, leaving another coil empty. For both subwoofers, when connected, total load will be: 1 ohm if wired parallel on sub and parallel between subs; 4ohms if wired serial on each sub and parallel between subs; 2 ohms if use only 1 coil on each sub and connect both of them in parallel. Wiring subs in serial is not good, so other options are out of question. Which of these ways is the best one to wire and why? I’m looking for the balance between loudness and quality, however, given choice, would choose slightly towards loudness. Would connect at 1 ohm but someone in a similar post said it’s better quality if wired at 2 or more ohms. Thanks everyone
Thanks, everybody for your effort. Btw – I’ve been running subwoofer on a single coil for about a year, and it didn’t blow. Whether should I have done that – that’s another question. Got my answer – 1ohm it is, just as I was going to.

Firstly, you should not begin wiring the Subwoofers until you are absolutely certain what OHM the amplifier will be stable at.
Some amplifiers are stable at 1 ohm and others have stability issues at 2 or 4 ohms when you bridge woofers.
Get the amplifier BEFORE YOU DO THE WIRING, OR YOU MAY HAVE TO DO IT ALL OVER AGAIN.

You can see WIRING POSSIBILITIES for your DUAL VOICE COIL subwoofers here:

http://www.cardomain.com/shop/wooferwizard.pl?num_of_subs=1&impedance_of_subs=dual%204%20ohms

click that link and you will be taken to a page that will show you simple steps for connecting 1 or more of your Audiobahn models to your amplifier.

If you are aiming to achieve the best loudness and quality, I RECOMMEND that you wire the subs to the lowest OHM rating provided by your amplifier.
If the Amplifier is 1 Ohm stable…wire them that way. The lowest resistance in my experience has allways gotten me the best sound quality.
Don’t worry about the difference in quality between 2OHMS and 1 OHM. The total harmonic distortion, or THD, of a signal is almost neglideagble in quality amplifiers like Rockford Fosgates, Audiobahns and Kickers.
THD is the amount of undesirable harmonics present in an output audio signal expressed as a precentage. The lower the percentage the better. In most quality amps like the Rockford Fosgate T1000Bd, the THD is is around 0.04.
The human ear won’t be able to notice the difference in fact.

Just be certain you wire up BOTH voice coils when you do the installation. Dual Voice coils are required to move the heavy, massive rubber boot as efficiently as possible.
Also keep in mind also that for this much power, you will want to have a CAPACITOR and the apropriate guage wire for whatever AMp you choose – I recommend a 2 Farad cap. If you want the setup to look hot, get a cap that has an LCD voltmeter on it.
Rockford Fosgate makes one for just under $175.

You can see my custom system here:

http://members.blackplanet.com/gracefulcobra/

I install sound and video systems as a hobby. I worked for Best Buy during my college days in the audio department.

My car stereo will only make noise when driving (hitting bumps). The stereo is silent when parked. I bought a new deck, checked wiring to the deck, checked battery connections, and
moved wires around while parked without any response. Does anyone have an idea on what to try next?

Maybe it just has malfunction, if it`s new, replace it or take it to the service.

I occassionally gander at home theater receivers now and then for the past three or four years and every time I look each one has no more than 110watts per channel output (a lot even have less than 100). How come they don’t ever go up to say 200watts per channel or something? Or have some type of home theater amplifier? Wondering if anybody has any input and it would be greatly appreciated.

Normally home theater systems support high channel audio. Say 6 channel Dolby or better. So 110w/channel is quite high (660W right there). Now the receiver has to have pre-amp, possibly radio receiver, and equilizer functions. These are low power applications that are highly susceptible to noise on the power rails and EM noise generated from nearby high power circuits. To properly shield the low power functions, supply power to all the functions, and then properly COOL the whole system down is a large engineering effort. People will not pay the $$ for the increased complexity that providing huge power support will cause to the whole system.
For high power applications, you are much better off (quality/$) to go to individual components and purchase a pre-amp, with a high power amp.
You could purchase a good quality low power theater receiver, then use the pre-amp outputs to amplifiers that support the type of power you are looking for. This will give you great quality high power output, at an audio quality dependant on the pre-amp (theater system) you choose.

I review the very first released figure of the brand new Paradigm Daleks. In this video i review the red Dalek Drone figure by Character Option released as part of the series five wave one figures. Watch in HD!

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The third part in the paradign shift

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contest for cc version 2.0 the contet is recreate a clip from a chris haslam video in create a park in skate 3

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Noel Lee, President of Monster Cable has a big love and passion for cars. Ferrari Scuderia Spider 16M When it comes to Ferrari Scuderia Spider 16m he has 3 of them. Red, Yellow and Black. What does he drive everyday?.How does he keep from getting all the tickets? If he could have any car which one would it be? Interview by ApInsights.info at CES 2010.
2010 Ferrari Scuderia Spider 16M Specifications
Body
Wheelbase2600 mm
Chassis
Brakes (Front)398mm X 36mm carbon-ceramic material front brake discs with aluminium 6-pot callipers
Brakes (Rear)350mm X 34mm carbon-ceramic material rear disc brakes with aluminium 6-pot callipers
Wheels19 inch Five-Spoke Split Rims
Tires FrontFabbrica Pirelli PZero Corsa 235/35
Tires RearFabbrica Pirelli PZero Corsa 285/35
Drivetrain
LayoutMid-Engine, RWD
TransmissionSix-speed plus Reverse F1 gearbox, Dry Dual Clutch
DifferentialElectronic differential E-diff + F1-Trac
Engine
Type:Naturally Aspirated Mid-Rear 90° V8
Compression Ratio11.9:1
Bore X Stroke92 mm X 81 mm
Engine & Transmission
Displacement cu in (cc):4308 cc
Power bhp (kW) at RPM:510 bhp (375.4 kW) @ 8500 rpm
Torque lb-ft (Nm) at RPM:347 lb-ft. (470 Nm) @ 5250 rpm
Redline at RPM:8640 rpm
Exterior
Body Type2 Door, 2 Seat Convertible
Length4512 mm
Width1923 mm
Height1216 mm
Curb Weight3175 lbs. (1440 kg)
Performance
Acceleration (0-100 km/h)3.7 seconds

Priced over $300,000.00–Only 499 made This person has 3 of 499.

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