Car Audio 101 – The Big 3 Upgrade Tutorial

May 232010

Posted in audio | 25 Comments »

DIY with Mike Stiers

http://www.maxxsonics.com

So you’ve decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come.

Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3.

THE BIG 3

The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this series of upgraded once.

The first of the Big 3 is the positive charging wire from your alternator to your battery positive. This wire must be fused within 12 of the positive battery terminal connection. The fuse value should be equivalent to the maximum amperage your wire can handle, which is based on the size and distance of the wire. If you have an upgraded, high output, alternator you will remove your factory alternator charge wire altogether and use the replacement described above.

The second upgrade for the Big 3 is the engine ground to chassis or in some cases, engine ground to battery negative. This is extremely important because this ground is also what ties the alternator ground, through the engine block, to the vehicle chassis. For this step, you want to add your 0 gauge ground to the existing ground. Just clean the area thoroughly and secure the two grounds using the same bolts and locations if possible.

The final upgrade for the Big 3 is the ground wire from battery negative to chassis. If you do not have access to the frame of the vehicle, dont settle for a piece of sheet metal under the hood, but rather locate the strut tower, remove a nut from the thread, sand all paint and debris, connect the 0 gauge ground using a ring terminal on the thread and tighten the nut down. This strut thread has direct access to the vehicle frame and will provide far less resistance than using sheet metal and relying on spot welds. Leave the factory ground in place and clean any dirt, rust or debris from this connection using sandpaper or a stiff wire brush. Through these three steps, you have successfully made huge progress in improving the electrical systems performance, decreased resistance, and enhanced the ability to supply power to your aftermarket audio system.

Hooker Audio wiring and connections where used in this video.

http://www.hookeraudio.com

The Kinetik Power HC1800 Car Audio battery was used in this video.

http://www.kinetikpower.com

Powered by Maxxsonics
MB Quart Hifonics Crunch Autotek

Duration : 0:6:12


[youtube p82xRzCr-lc]

25 Responses

  1. flint1810 Says:

    @MaxxsonicsUSAInc …
    @MaxxsonicsUSAInc ok appreciate it mike i might try to do it myself doesn’t look too hard plus it’ll save me some money on the labor

  2. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @7356205 It can’t …
    @7356205 It can’t hurt to upgrade it if you are concerned.

  3. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @flint1810 8-10 …
    @flint1810 8-10 total. You need enough power wire to run from alt + to batt +. Then from batt – to frame and engine block to batt – or frame.

  4. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @low72 According to …
    @low72 According to the info I researched regarding your amp, you require a 150amp in line fuse.

  5. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @low72 I would …
    @low72 I would recommend looking at XS Power for alternators. Those guys really know their stuff.

  6. low72 Says:

    I ran out of room …
    I ran out of room on the last comment…and you run a fuse between the ALT & the battery? & if I’m making my own amp kit…what size fuse block between the amp & battery do I need? a 100A or 300A? Thanks a lot!!

  7. low72 Says:

    mike you da man …
    mike you da man with the masta plan…i just threw a ‘06 Kicker S15L7 wired to 1 ohm on my Kicker KX1200.1 with a 4 gauge amp kit in a 6 cu ft ported box. slapping but my car nearly turns off when I try to turn it up past medium bumpin volume..even when im cruisin..I was told I will need a 160 amp alternator & a kinetik 1800…what do you think? any specific brand of wire that is good? Cus i found some 0 gauge on ebay but idk yet. Any brand of ALT you roll with? I was checking out Nations

  8. 7356205 Says:

    @MaxxsonicsUSAInc …
    @MaxxsonicsUSAInc its connected through a couple brackets, but its an older car. for some reason i feel uncertain about it

  9. flint1810 Says:

    @MaxxsonicsUSAInc …
    @MaxxsonicsUSAInc ok i just need around 8-10 feet of power and ground 1/0awg wire or just power wire im a little confused?

  10. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @7356205 I can’t …
    @7356205 I can’t see how this would hurt. Is your alt connected directly to the engine block like in this Scion or is it separate?

  11. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @shehzer I would …
    @shehzer I would recommend researching XSPOWER alternators and contacting them for step by step installation instructions that pertain to your particular alternator and vehicle. The guys at XSPOWER are very knowledgeable and helpful.

  12. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @flint1810 Every …
    @flint1810 Every vehicle is different, but on average I have would think 8 to 10 feet would be about right. You can measure from point to point if you have a tape measure.

  13. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @lovers800 If your …
    @lovers800 If your battery post is heating up on the ground then it may indicate your battery is damaged or you have a bad point of ground from the negative battery post to the location on the vehicle. Heat means high resistance. Is you connector tight on that post or is it lose?

  14. lovers800 Says:

    i did the big 3 …
    i did the big 3 upgrade and my battery keeps heating up only on negative post of the battery, do i need to buy a new battery or a kinetik battery

  15. flint1810 Says:

    what’s up mike? i …
    what’s up mike? i have a 1998 buick century just wanted to know how many feet of 1/0awg i need to run the BIG 3?

  16. shehzer Says:

    i live in pakistan, …
    i live in pakistan, i have a toyota corolla with a power thirsty audio system! how do i upgrade my alternator? this power issue is making my life miserable. please help

  17. 7356205 Says:

    would it hurt to …
    would it hurt to wire from the alternator case to chassis, instead of engine to chasses? please reply! thanks.

  18. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @dragonsage2008 Yes …
    @dragonsage2008 Yes, 4 gauge piggy backing the original wire will be beneficial.

  19. dragonsage2008 Says:

    will 4 gag wire …
    will 4 gag wire work to do this up grade or 5 gag wire

  20. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @bbroader1310 The …
    @bbroader1310 The Big 3 will help on delivery, but I don’t think it will cure the issues you are currently having. An alternator upgrade would be ideal.

  21. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @bbroader1310 WOW! …
    @bbroader1310 WOW! Have you measured your voltage when this happens? Sounds like you need major electrical upgrades.

  22. bbroader1310 Says:

    also i bought a new …
    also i bought a new bat not like a kinetic or anything but just a new everyday one because the other one was toast and it still was draining it i dont have much money i do want eventually a HO alt or something idk if the big 3 would be enough or not please help

  23. bbroader1310 Says:

    hey i have a boss …
    hey i have a boss audio touch screen dvd 80X4 deck 4X6 pioneers in tha front 6×9 infintys 2 12″ subs sony xplod 1000w/each and a 1400w amp i installed the new deck yesterday and my car actually dies even when running never had a prob before that

  24. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @ERIKMYLEIGH I left …
    @ERIKMYLEIGH I left it. It is actually best to piggy back whenever possible.

  25. ERIKMYLEIGH Says:

    (dumb question) did …
    (dumb question) did you leave the 8 gauge power cable? (alternator to battery) or did you toss it? I mean it LOOKS like you left it

Leave a Comment

Please note: Comment moderation is enabled and may delay your comment. There is no need to resubmit your comment.

Car Audio 101 – The Big 3 Upgrade Tutorial

May 232010

Posted in audio | 25 Comments »

DIY with Mike Stiers

http://www.maxxsonics.com

So you’ve decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come.

Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3.

THE BIG 3

The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this series of upgraded once.

The first of the Big 3 is the positive charging wire from your alternator to your battery positive. This wire must be fused within 12 of the positive battery terminal connection. The fuse value should be equivalent to the maximum amperage your wire can handle, which is based on the size and distance of the wire. If you have an upgraded, high output, alternator you will remove your factory alternator charge wire altogether and use the replacement described above.

The second upgrade for the Big 3 is the engine ground to chassis or in some cases, engine ground to battery negative. This is extremely important because this ground is also what ties the alternator ground, through the engine block, to the vehicle chassis. For this step, you want to add your 0 gauge ground to the existing ground. Just clean the area thoroughly and secure the two grounds using the same bolts and locations if possible.

The final upgrade for the Big 3 is the ground wire from battery negative to chassis. If you do not have access to the frame of the vehicle, dont settle for a piece of sheet metal under the hood, but rather locate the strut tower, remove a nut from the thread, sand all paint and debris, connect the 0 gauge ground using a ring terminal on the thread and tighten the nut down. This strut thread has direct access to the vehicle frame and will provide far less resistance than using sheet metal and relying on spot welds. Leave the factory ground in place and clean any dirt, rust or debris from this connection using sandpaper or a stiff wire brush. Through these three steps, you have successfully made huge progress in improving the electrical systems performance, decreased resistance, and enhanced the ability to supply power to your aftermarket audio system.

Hooker Audio wiring and connections where used in this video.

http://www.hookeraudio.com

The Kinetik Power HC1800 Car Audio battery was used in this video.

http://www.kinetikpower.com

Powered by Maxxsonics
MB Quart Hifonics Crunch Autotek

Duration : 0:6:12


[youtube p82xRzCr-lc]

25 Responses

  1. flint1810 Says:

    @MaxxsonicsUSAInc …
    @MaxxsonicsUSAInc ok appreciate it mike i might try to do it myself doesn’t look too hard plus it’ll save me some money on the labor

  2. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @7356205 It can’t …
    @7356205 It can’t hurt to upgrade it if you are concerned.

  3. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @flint1810 8-10 …
    @flint1810 8-10 total. You need enough power wire to run from alt + to batt +. Then from batt – to frame and engine block to batt – or frame.

  4. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @low72 According to …
    @low72 According to the info I researched regarding your amp, you require a 150amp in line fuse.

  5. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @low72 I would …
    @low72 I would recommend looking at XS Power for alternators. Those guys really know their stuff.

  6. low72 Says:

    I ran out of room …
    I ran out of room on the last comment…and you run a fuse between the ALT & the battery? & if I’m making my own amp kit…what size fuse block between the amp & battery do I need? a 100A or 300A? Thanks a lot!!

  7. low72 Says:

    mike you da man …
    mike you da man with the masta plan…i just threw a ‘06 Kicker S15L7 wired to 1 ohm on my Kicker KX1200.1 with a 4 gauge amp kit in a 6 cu ft ported box. slapping but my car nearly turns off when I try to turn it up past medium bumpin volume..even when im cruisin..I was told I will need a 160 amp alternator & a kinetik 1800…what do you think? any specific brand of wire that is good? Cus i found some 0 gauge on ebay but idk yet. Any brand of ALT you roll with? I was checking out Nations

  8. 7356205 Says:

    @MaxxsonicsUSAInc …
    @MaxxsonicsUSAInc its connected through a couple brackets, but its an older car. for some reason i feel uncertain about it

  9. flint1810 Says:

    @MaxxsonicsUSAInc …
    @MaxxsonicsUSAInc ok i just need around 8-10 feet of power and ground 1/0awg wire or just power wire im a little confused?

  10. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @7356205 I can’t …
    @7356205 I can’t see how this would hurt. Is your alt connected directly to the engine block like in this Scion or is it separate?

  11. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @shehzer I would …
    @shehzer I would recommend researching XSPOWER alternators and contacting them for step by step installation instructions that pertain to your particular alternator and vehicle. The guys at XSPOWER are very knowledgeable and helpful.

  12. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @flint1810 Every …
    @flint1810 Every vehicle is different, but on average I have would think 8 to 10 feet would be about right. You can measure from point to point if you have a tape measure.

  13. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @lovers800 If your …
    @lovers800 If your battery post is heating up on the ground then it may indicate your battery is damaged or you have a bad point of ground from the negative battery post to the location on the vehicle. Heat means high resistance. Is you connector tight on that post or is it lose?

  14. lovers800 Says:

    i did the big 3 …
    i did the big 3 upgrade and my battery keeps heating up only on negative post of the battery, do i need to buy a new battery or a kinetik battery

  15. flint1810 Says:

    what’s up mike? i …
    what’s up mike? i have a 1998 buick century just wanted to know how many feet of 1/0awg i need to run the BIG 3?

  16. shehzer Says:

    i live in pakistan, …
    i live in pakistan, i have a toyota corolla with a power thirsty audio system! how do i upgrade my alternator? this power issue is making my life miserable. please help

  17. 7356205 Says:

    would it hurt to …
    would it hurt to wire from the alternator case to chassis, instead of engine to chasses? please reply! thanks.

  18. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @dragonsage2008 Yes …
    @dragonsage2008 Yes, 4 gauge piggy backing the original wire will be beneficial.

  19. dragonsage2008 Says:

    will 4 gag wire …
    will 4 gag wire work to do this up grade or 5 gag wire

  20. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @bbroader1310 The …
    @bbroader1310 The Big 3 will help on delivery, but I don’t think it will cure the issues you are currently having. An alternator upgrade would be ideal.

  21. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @bbroader1310 WOW! …
    @bbroader1310 WOW! Have you measured your voltage when this happens? Sounds like you need major electrical upgrades.

  22. bbroader1310 Says:

    also i bought a new …
    also i bought a new bat not like a kinetic or anything but just a new everyday one because the other one was toast and it still was draining it i dont have much money i do want eventually a HO alt or something idk if the big 3 would be enough or not please help

  23. bbroader1310 Says:

    hey i have a boss …
    hey i have a boss audio touch screen dvd 80X4 deck 4X6 pioneers in tha front 6×9 infintys 2 12″ subs sony xplod 1000w/each and a 1400w amp i installed the new deck yesterday and my car actually dies even when running never had a prob before that

  24. MaxxsonicsUSAInc Says:

    @ERIKMYLEIGH I left …
    @ERIKMYLEIGH I left it. It is actually best to piggy back whenever possible.

  25. ERIKMYLEIGH Says:

    (dumb question) did …
    (dumb question) did you leave the 8 gauge power cable? (alternator to battery) or did you toss it? I mean it LOOKS like you left it

Leave a Comment

Please note: Comment moderation is enabled and may delay your comment. There is no need to resubmit your comment.

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