DIY with Mike Stiers
http://www.maxxsonics.com
So you’ve decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come.
Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3.
THE BIG 3
The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this series of upgraded once.
The first of the Big 3 is the positive charging wire from your alternator to your battery positive. This wire must be fused within 12 of the positive battery terminal connection. The fuse value should be equivalent to the maximum amperage your wire can handle, which is based on the size and distance of the wire. If you have an upgraded, high output, alternator you will remove your factory alternator charge wire altogether and use the replacement described above.
The second upgrade for the Big 3 is the engine ground to chassis or in some cases, engine ground to battery negative. This is extremely important because this ground is also what ties the alternator ground, through the engine block, to the vehicle chassis. For this step, you want to add your 0 gauge ground to the existing ground. Just clean the area thoroughly and secure the two grounds using the same bolts and locations if possible.
The final upgrade for the Big 3 is the ground wire from battery negative to chassis. If you do not have access to the frame of the vehicle, dont settle for a piece of sheet metal under the hood, but rather locate the strut tower, remove a nut from the thread, sand all paint and debris, connect the 0 gauge ground using a ring terminal on the thread and tighten the nut down. This strut thread has direct access to the vehicle frame and will provide far less resistance than using sheet metal and relying on spot welds. Leave the factory ground in place and clean any dirt, rust or debris from this connection using sandpaper or a stiff wire brush. Through these three steps, you have successfully made huge progress in improving the electrical systems performance, decreased resistance, and enhanced the ability to supply power to your aftermarket audio system.
Hooker Audio wiring and connections where used in this video.
http://www.hookeraudio.com
The Kinetik Power HC1800 Car Audio battery was used in this video.
http://www.kinetikpower.com
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When attempting to bridge two subwoofers together, use a single or dual voice coil to connect the subwoofers to an amplifier. Discover which kind of amplifiers are bridgeable with help from the manager of a car audio store in this free video on car audio and subwoofers.
This is a video version of my Audio Myths workshop from the October 2009 AES show in New York City. For copyright and other reasons, Part 1 of this video includes only a portion of the live event that also featured James Johnston and Poppy Crum. Parts 2 and 3 present a more focused recreation of my presentation, including many topics we didn’t have time for at the live show.
these are my 4 memphis HPO’s with 6000 watts from a viosonik high current amplifier….here im just showing flexing not bass, this is a 22 hertz note….NOT TRYING TO HIT HARD HERE…people wanna hate, these hit a 150.3 at Nopi nationals in atlanta georgia in 05 and won their class
Just purchased some of the best stuff to create that sexy, “Rock-Like” surface on your subwoofer enclosures! Spatter Paint – looks great, for crazy cheap!
2 10″ lightning audio storm subwoofers made by TC sounds from juicy robot. 750 watts at 4 ohms each off a beringer ep 2500. 20 hz, 10 hz, 5 hz, 1hz, and bass i love you from my macbook.
http://airboyd.tv
Home Theater Room ideas, Projector Screens, Seating.