Paradigm

Just A Scrap Video – **CRANK YOUR BASS, or PUT ON HEADPHONES**

I wanted to see what the hype was all about, and they were right! Tech N9ne ft. 3 6 Mafia – Demons DUMPS!!!

http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto

**Enjoy The Music? Subscribe For More Information On These ORIGINAL “Bassy” Tracks – Cultivata & MC Fathom Phantom ~ Biggest Thanks!

Thanks Big Meade / SMD- The Sub Is AWESOME

My 1st Ever “SPL” Car Audio Bass Installation

(1) Alpine MRP 500 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(1) Alpine MRP 1000 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(3) 12 inch Orion HP Subs – 500 Watts @ 2 ohms
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Dash Highs & Tweeters
(2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Mid Range Speakers
(2) Power Acoustik PCX 5 Farad Capacitors
(1) 10 ” MTX Blue Thunder Sub Woofer Console
* MCR 200 Amp H/O Alt *

My Loudest Stereo System To Date / Competition

Pioneer DEH-P6000ub – Best Head Unit
Clarion Eqs746 Graphic Equalizer – Easy Tuning EQ
(1) Diablo Audio Technologies Hellfire 2500.1 / DAT
** 3000 Watt RMS Mono Amp @ 1 ohm **
(1) AA / Ascendant Mayhem 18″ Subwoofer * HUGE
(1) Single Slot Ported Box Tuned To 32 hz / 6 cubes
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Dash Highs & Tweeters
(2) Polk DB 5×7’s – Loud Door Mids
(2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Back Hatch Mids
(1) MCR High Output Alternator / 200 Amps
(2) C&D Liberty 1000 Deep Cycle AGM Batteries w/ Dual Aluminum Bus Bars – 100 Amp Hour Each
(STB) Optima Red Top Starter Battery & Bar Mounts
Big Three in 0 Gauge Stinger Cable / Tsunami Wire

Make Em’ Know The Songs Of Technology

BassHeads Unite!

Duration : 0:3:10

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This is the process of converting my single car garage into a home theater.

Duration : 0:3:59

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Hello Everybody! Remember that guy with the four Kicker CVR subs in the sonotube enclosure? Well, he’s back with the best BASS comeback yet!

http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto

**Enjoy The Music? Subscribe For More Information On These ORIGINAL Bass Tracks – Cultivata & MC Fathom Phantom**

His New SPL System -

2 DTR1-3400d D Tower Class D MonoBlock Amplifiers
4 SPLX-HX 12’s / 12 Inch Sub Woofers
75 ft 1/0 – 0 Gauge Power Cable
3 C&D Technologies Deep Cycle AGM Batteries
Soundstream Speakers STB Build Install
Two Voltmeter’s – Back & Front
Big Three / 3 Upgrade

Even if you don’t know a lot about installing car audio stereos – You can see how wicked crazy this re-build is ! Besides the insane amount of window & windshield flex , the car was nearly flexing apart! My teeth were rattling like a mofo & my feet were vibrating ~ No “out pops eye” lol , but hey – it sounded extremely good on the lows, and incredible on the door / dash mids & highs – registered the deep tones like a beast , just like most good systems ! You’d think with all that air moving that King Kong was really in this trunk – even with a hair trick – SS Guide – Making Way For The Ultimate Sound Pressure Experience

Ever Need Loud Songs? Increase Your Playlist!
Visit My Top 100 Songs With Bass
How To – Instructional & Tutorial on Channel Page
Make Yourself A System
BassHeads Unite
EXO

Duration : 0:2:46

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Basement Home Theater

NEW VIDEO: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OkXfqNNGlX0

AVSForum Thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=838663

Equipment List:
-AVR-4306: 7.1 CH Home Theater/MultiMedia A/V
Receiver
-Panasonic PT-AE900U Projector
-110″ Diagonal DIY screen with screen material
from www.smxscreen.com
-Oppo OPDV971H Up-Converting DVD Player
-Berkline 090 Theater Seats with Buttkickers and
motorized reclining
-1 Polk CSi5 center speaker
-2 Polk RTi10 left and right front speakers
-4 Polk FXi3 surround speakers
-1 Polk PSW12 subwoofer
-Xbox 360, great 720p content and games
-Xbox 360 HD DVD Player
-DirecTV HR20, a wonderful HD DVR

I did the majority of the work myself. The Theater is double drywalled with two sheets of 5/8″ drywall with Green Glue between each sheet of drywall and insulation stuffed in all the walls and ceiling. All the walls and the ceiling are isolated using products from http://www.pac-intl.com The front stage is also completely filled with sand. I also use a Biometric Fingerprint Door Lock for access to the Theater.

Any more questions or suggestions for this list just post a comment.

A new video of the Theater will be coming shortly.

Thanks for viewing!

Duration : 0:1:28

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DIY with Mike Stiers

http://www.maxxsonics.com

So you’ve decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come.

Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3.

THE BIG 3

The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this series of upgraded once.

The first of the Big 3 is the positive charging wire from your alternator to your battery positive. This wire must be fused within 12 of the positive battery terminal connection. The fuse value should be equivalent to the maximum amperage your wire can handle, which is based on the size and distance of the wire. If you have an upgraded, high output, alternator you will remove your factory alternator charge wire altogether and use the replacement described above.

The second upgrade for the Big 3 is the engine ground to chassis or in some cases, engine ground to battery negative. This is extremely important because this ground is also what ties the alternator ground, through the engine block, to the vehicle chassis. For this step, you want to add your 0 gauge ground to the existing ground. Just clean the area thoroughly and secure the two grounds using the same bolts and locations if possible.

The final upgrade for the Big 3 is the ground wire from battery negative to chassis. If you do not have access to the frame of the vehicle, dont settle for a piece of sheet metal under the hood, but rather locate the strut tower, remove a nut from the thread, sand all paint and debris, connect the 0 gauge ground using a ring terminal on the thread and tighten the nut down. This strut thread has direct access to the vehicle frame and will provide far less resistance than using sheet metal and relying on spot welds. Leave the factory ground in place and clean any dirt, rust or debris from this connection using sandpaper or a stiff wire brush. Through these three steps, you have successfully made huge progress in improving the electrical systems performance, decreased resistance, and enhanced the ability to supply power to your aftermarket audio system.

Hooker Audio wiring and connections where used in this video.

http://www.hookeraudio.com

The Kinetik Power HC1800 Car Audio battery was used in this video.

http://www.kinetikpower.com

Powered by Maxxsonics
MB Quart Hifonics Crunch Autotek

Duration : 0:6:12

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DIY with Mike Stiers

http://www.maxxsonics.com

So you’ve decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come.

Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3.

THE BIG 3

The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this series of upgraded once.

The first of the Big 3 is the positive charging wire from your alternator to your battery positive. This wire must be fused within 12 of the positive battery terminal connection. The fuse value should be equivalent to the maximum amperage your wire can handle, which is based on the size and distance of the wire. If you have an upgraded, high output, alternator you will remove your factory alternator charge wire altogether and use the replacement described above.

The second upgrade for the Big 3 is the engine ground to chassis or in some cases, engine ground to battery negative. This is extremely important because this ground is also what ties the alternator ground, through the engine block, to the vehicle chassis. For this step, you want to add your 0 gauge ground to the existing ground. Just clean the area thoroughly and secure the two grounds using the same bolts and locations if possible.

The final upgrade for the Big 3 is the ground wire from battery negative to chassis. If you do not have access to the frame of the vehicle, dont settle for a piece of sheet metal under the hood, but rather locate the strut tower, remove a nut from the thread, sand all paint and debris, connect the 0 gauge ground using a ring terminal on the thread and tighten the nut down. This strut thread has direct access to the vehicle frame and will provide far less resistance than using sheet metal and relying on spot welds. Leave the factory ground in place and clean any dirt, rust or debris from this connection using sandpaper or a stiff wire brush. Through these three steps, you have successfully made huge progress in improving the electrical systems performance, decreased resistance, and enhanced the ability to supply power to your aftermarket audio system.

Hooker Audio wiring and connections where used in this video.

http://www.hookeraudio.com

The Kinetik Power HC1800 Car Audio battery was used in this video.

http://www.kinetikpower.com

Powered by Maxxsonics
MB Quart Hifonics Crunch Autotek

Duration : 0:6:12

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Just purchased some of the best stuff to create that sexy, “Rock-Like” surface on your subwoofer enclosures! Spatter Paint – looks great, for crazy cheap!

http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto

**Enjoy The Music? Subscribe For More Information On These ORIGINAL Tracks – Cultivata & MC Fathom Phantom ~ EXO

My First Car Audio SPL Bass Installation

(1) Alpine MRP 500 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(1) Alpine MRP 1000 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(3) Orion HP 12 @ 2 ohms – Subs
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs
(2) Power Acoustik PCX 5 farad Capacitors
*Same 200 amp H/O Alt*

My Current Competition Car Audio Stereo System

Pioneer DEH-P6000ub – Head Unit
Clarion Eqs746 Graphic EQ – Equalizer *BEST*
(1) DAT Hellfire 2500.1 Class D Mono Amp ( Diablo Audio Technologies ) 3000 + Watts @ 1 ohm
(1) AA / Ascendant Mayhem 18 inch Subwoofer
(1) Single Slot Ported Box Tuned To 32 hz / 6cft
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs & Tweeters
(2) Polk DB 5×7’s – Mid Range Speakers
(2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Mid Range Speakers
(1) MCR 200 amp High Output Alternator
Big 3 in 0 Gauge Cable – Stinger / Tsunami Power Wire

Make Em Know Technology / BassHeads Unite ~ EXO

BTW – *Not Rubberized Undercoating*

Duration : 0:3:1

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Just purchased some of the best stuff to create that sexy, “Rock-Like” surface on your subwoofer enclosures! Spatter Paint – looks great, for crazy cheap!

http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto

**Enjoy The Music? Subscribe For More Information On These ORIGINAL Tracks – Cultivata & MC Fathom Phantom ~ EXO

My First Car Audio SPL Bass Installation

(1) Alpine MRP 500 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(1) Alpine MRP 1000 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(3) Orion HP 12 @ 2 ohms – Subs
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs
(2) Power Acoustik PCX 5 farad Capacitors
*Same 200 amp H/O Alt*

My Current Competition Car Audio Stereo System

Pioneer DEH-P6000ub – Head Unit
Clarion Eqs746 Graphic EQ – Equalizer *BEST*
(1) DAT Hellfire 2500.1 Class D Mono Amp ( Diablo Audio Technologies ) 3000 + Watts @ 1 ohm
(1) AA / Ascendant Mayhem 18 inch Subwoofer
(1) Single Slot Ported Box Tuned To 32 hz / 6cft
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs & Tweeters
(2) Polk DB 5×7’s – Mid Range Speakers
(2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Mid Range Speakers
(1) MCR 200 amp High Output Alternator
Big 3 in 0 Gauge Cable – Stinger / Tsunami Power Wire

Make Em Know Technology / BassHeads Unite ~ EXO

BTW – *Not Rubberized Undercoating*

Duration : 0:3:1

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Home Theater Room ideas, Projector Screens, Seating.

Duration : 0:10:27

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Basement Home Theater in HD

Equipment List:
-AVR-4306: 7.1 CH Home Theater/MultiMedia A/V
Receiver

http://www.usa.denon.com/ProductDetails/2243.asp

-PANASONIC PT-AE2000U HD Home Cinema 1080p LCD Projector

http://www.projectorcentral.com/Panasonic_Home-PT-AE2000U.htm

-110″ Diagonal DIY screen with screen material
from http://www.smxscreen.com
-OPPO DV-981HD 1080p High Definition Up-Converting DVD Player

http://www.oppodigital.com/dv981hd/dv981hd_index.html

-8 Berkline 090 Theater Seats with Buttkickers
and motorized reclining

http://www.rtheaters.com

-1 Polk CSi5 center speaker
-2 Polk RTi10 left and right front speakers
-4 Polk FXi3 surround speakers
-1 Polk PSW12 subwoofer

http://www.polkaudio.com/

-Xbox 360 Elite, great HD content and games

http://www.xbox.com/en-US/hardware/

-Xbox 360 HD DVD Player
-PS3, great Blu-ray player

http://www.us.playstation.com/PS3

-DirecTV HR20, a wonderful HD DVR

http://www.dbstalk.com/forumdisplay.php?f=112

-2 Buttkicker BKA-1000-4A Amplifiers

http://www.thebuttkicker.com/home_theater/products/bka1000-4a.htm

-Middle Atlantic 60-Inch Slide-Out Rotating Rack

http://www.smarthome.com/8742a60.html

- 1 INSTEON 8 Button Keypad and 2 INSTEON Dimmer Switches

http://www.smarthome.com/_/INSTEON/_/23b/land.aspx

-Biometric Figerprint Door Lock is the
Shepherd DL 210 and I found it on eBay.

I did the majority of the work myself. The Theater is double drywalled with two sheets of 5/8″ drywall with Green Glue http://www.greengluecompany.com between each sheet of drywall and insulation stuffed in all the walls and ceiling. All the walls and the ceiling are isolated using products from http://www.pac-intl.com The front stage is completely filled with sand and I use a Biometric Fingerprint Door Lock for access to the Theater.

AVSForum Thread:

http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=838663

Construction Photos:

http://scale.smugmug.com/gallery/882081#39911578

If you have any questions or suggestions for this list just post a comment at the bottom.

Thanks for viewing!

The song is ‘The Beginning Is The End Is The Beginning’ by The Smashing Pumpkins.

If you like it go buy it!!

Amazon MP3, no DRM: http://tinyurl.com/56mwb3

It is the same song used in the Watchmen trailer but not the same version, the song was originally on the soundtrack for Batman and Robin.

Duration : 0:2:22

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