Ground Zero Plutonium 15’s
July 182010
2 15″ GZ Plutonium subwoofers powered off of 2 SPl Dynamics D5’s.
Duration : 0:0:48
2 15″ GZ Plutonium subwoofers powered off of 2 SPl Dynamics D5’s.
Duration : 0:0:48
Just A Scrap Video – **CRANK YOUR BASS, or PUT ON HEADPHONES**
I wanted to see what the hype was all about, and they were right! Tech N9ne ft. 3 6 Mafia – Demons DUMPS!!!
http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto
**Enjoy The Music? Subscribe For More Information On These ORIGINAL “Bassy” Tracks – Cultivata & MC Fathom Phantom ~ Biggest Thanks!
Thanks Big Meade / SMD- The Sub Is AWESOME
My 1st Ever “SPL” Car Audio Bass Installation
(1) Alpine MRP 500 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(1) Alpine MRP 1000 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(3) 12 inch Orion HP Subs – 500 Watts @ 2 ohms
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Dash Highs & Tweeters
(2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Mid Range Speakers
(2) Power Acoustik PCX 5 Farad Capacitors
(1) 10 ” MTX Blue Thunder Sub Woofer Console
* MCR 200 Amp H/O Alt *
My Loudest Stereo System To Date / Competition
Pioneer DEH-P6000ub – Best Head Unit
Clarion Eqs746 Graphic Equalizer – Easy Tuning EQ
(1) Diablo Audio Technologies Hellfire 2500.1 / DAT
** 3000 Watt RMS Mono Amp @ 1 ohm **
(1) AA / Ascendant Mayhem 18″ Subwoofer * HUGE
(1) Single Slot Ported Box Tuned To 32 hz / 6 cubes
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Dash Highs & Tweeters
(2) Polk DB 5×7’s – Loud Door Mids
(2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Back Hatch Mids
(1) MCR High Output Alternator / 200 Amps
(2) C&D Liberty 1000 Deep Cycle AGM Batteries w/ Dual Aluminum Bus Bars – 100 Amp Hour Each
(STB) Optima Red Top Starter Battery & Bar Mounts
Big Three in 0 Gauge Stinger Cable / Tsunami Wire
Make Em’ Know The Songs Of Technology
BassHeads Unite!
Duration : 0:3:10
Final Bass Tribute To The Orion Subwoofers & Alpine Amps. I posted a list of what was best hitting for them on the low notes. Some Good Bass Lines! ~ EXO
http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto
**Enjoy The Music? Biggest Thanks The Master Of Beats ~ The One & Only Cultivata! Subscribe For More Information On These ORIGINAL CULTIVATA Tracks ~ EXO
Add Me* *
* * http://www.myspace.com/exocontralto * *
Awesome bass while they lasted, But I need the deepest lows, and crazy best bass flex I can get! – with A good bassline Song, There is no such thing as too loud! – The Loudest Is Not Loud Enough! – Bye HP’s! Thanks Meade for the new 18 inch sub!
Soundtrack By ~ Cultivata
Best Bass Songs Ever That I Use!
White Girl – Young Jeezy
Late Nite Tip – 3 6 mafia
Killa Whale – Andre Nickatina
Mean Mug – 3 6 mafia
Put On – Young Jeezy
BME Click – Lil Jon
Thuggin – Webbie
Thug From Around The Way – Slim Thug
Hypnotize – Young Jeezy
Playin With Fire – lil Wayne
Dick Please – lil Wayne
Lost – Gorilla Zoe
Freaky Girl – Gucci Mane
Bricks 4 The High – Dem Franchize Boyz
I’m So Icy – Gucci Mane
Da Blow – Lil Jon
Muscle Cars – E-40
Poor Mans Hydrolics – E-40
On Oil – E-40
Wipe Me Down – Lil Boosie
Lollipop – Lil Wayne
Throw It Up – Lil Jon
A Millie – Lil Wayne with Chopped & Screwed
Hotel Room Service – Pitbull
My Competition Car Audio SPL Bass Installation
Pioneer DEH-P6000ub – Head Unit
Clarion Eqs746 Graphic – Equalizer *ultimate*
(1) Alpine MRP M500 – Class D Monoblock amp
(1) Alpine MRP M1000 – Class D Monoblock amp
(3) Orion HP 12 @ 2 ohms – Subs
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs
(2) Polk DB 5×7’s – Mid Range
(2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Mid Range
Big 3 in 0 Gauge – Stinger / Tsumani Power Wire
(1) MCR 200 amp H/O Alternator
(2) Power Acoustik PCX 5 farad Capacitors
Duration : 0:2:27
Alfa Romeo 8C – Car test
La prima parte del nome non richiama solo l’architettura del motore di 4,7 litri: negli anni trenta e quaranta, la sigla 8C identificava le Alfa dotate del leggendario 8 cilindri creato da Vittorio Jano. L’altra parte, invece, rende omaggio alla 6C 2500 Competizione, la coupé guidata da Fangio alla Mille Miglia del 1950.
La 8C segna il ritorno dell’Alfa Romeo alla trazione posteriore, su cui vengono scaricati i 450 cavalli (erogati a 7000 giri/min) del motore 4.700 cc V8 di derivazione Maserati, ovviamente a benzina. Inoltre sono disponibili 470 Nm di coppia a 4.750 giri/min, con l’80% disponibile già da 2.000 giri, 0-100 in 4.2 sec
L’architettura è transaxle (come sulle Maserati): il motore si trova all’avantreno, mentre differenziale e cambio sono al retrotreno, per un ottimale bilanciamento dei pesi.
La carrozzeria è in leggera fibra di carbonio, così come parte dell’abitacolo e le strutture dei sedili.
Il motore della 8c è stato di recente adattato (nella versione da 440cv) anche alla nuova Maserati GranTurismo S.
Spider (version)
8c Spider sarà presentata ufficialmente (in colore bianco inedito) al salone dell’auto di Ginevra nel marzo del 2008, anch’essa sarà prodotta in serie limitata 500 unità.
La versione spider sarà equipaggiata con lo stesso V8 4.7 da 450Cv della coupé, abbinato al cambio robotizzato a 6 rapporti, la capote molto probabilmente sarà in tela (come da tradizione Alfa)
Duration : 0:2:3
Hello Everybody! Remember that guy with the four Kicker CVR subs in the sonotube enclosure? Well, he’s back with the best BASS comeback yet!
http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto
**Enjoy The Music? Subscribe For More Information On These ORIGINAL Bass Tracks – Cultivata & MC Fathom Phantom**
His New SPL System -
2 DTR1-3400d D Tower Class D MonoBlock Amplifiers
4 SPLX-HX 12’s / 12 Inch Sub Woofers
75 ft 1/0 – 0 Gauge Power Cable
3 C&D Technologies Deep Cycle AGM Batteries
Soundstream Speakers STB Build Install
Two Voltmeter’s – Back & Front
Big Three / 3 Upgrade
Even if you don’t know a lot about installing car audio stereos – You can see how wicked crazy this re-build is ! Besides the insane amount of window & windshield flex , the car was nearly flexing apart! My teeth were rattling like a mofo & my feet were vibrating
~ No “out pops eye” lol , but hey – it sounded extremely good on the lows, and incredible on the door / dash mids & highs – registered the deep tones like a beast , just like most good systems ! You’d think with all that air moving that King Kong was really in this trunk – even with a hair trick – SS Guide – Making Way For The Ultimate Sound Pressure Experience
Ever Need Loud Songs? Increase Your Playlist!
Visit My Top 100 Songs With Bass
How To – Instructional & Tutorial on Channel Page
Make Yourself A System ![]()
BassHeads Unite
EXO
Duration : 0:2:46
When attempting to bridge two subwoofers together, use a single or dual voice coil to connect the subwoofers to an amplifier. Discover which kind of amplifiers are bridgeable with help from the manager of a car audio store in this free video on car audio and subwoofers.
Expert: Rich Richards
Bio: Rich has over 20 years of experience in home audio and car audio. He is the manager at Innovative Home and Car Audio.
Filmmaker: Michael Burton
Duration : 0:2:44
these are my 4 memphis HPO’s with 6000 watts from a viosonik high current amplifier….here im just showing flexing not bass, this is a 22 hertz note….NOT TRYING TO HIT HARD HERE…people wanna hate, these hit a 150.3 at Nopi nationals in atlanta georgia in 05 and won their class
Duration : 0:0:40
DIY with Mike Stiers
http://www.maxxsonics.com
So you’ve decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come.
Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3.
THE BIG 3
The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this series of upgraded once.
The first of the Big 3 is the positive charging wire from your alternator to your battery positive. This wire must be fused within 12 of the positive battery terminal connection. The fuse value should be equivalent to the maximum amperage your wire can handle, which is based on the size and distance of the wire. If you have an upgraded, high output, alternator you will remove your factory alternator charge wire altogether and use the replacement described above.
The second upgrade for the Big 3 is the engine ground to chassis or in some cases, engine ground to battery negative. This is extremely important because this ground is also what ties the alternator ground, through the engine block, to the vehicle chassis. For this step, you want to add your 0 gauge ground to the existing ground. Just clean the area thoroughly and secure the two grounds using the same bolts and locations if possible.
The final upgrade for the Big 3 is the ground wire from battery negative to chassis. If you do not have access to the frame of the vehicle, dont settle for a piece of sheet metal under the hood, but rather locate the strut tower, remove a nut from the thread, sand all paint and debris, connect the 0 gauge ground using a ring terminal on the thread and tighten the nut down. This strut thread has direct access to the vehicle frame and will provide far less resistance than using sheet metal and relying on spot welds. Leave the factory ground in place and clean any dirt, rust or debris from this connection using sandpaper or a stiff wire brush. Through these three steps, you have successfully made huge progress in improving the electrical systems performance, decreased resistance, and enhanced the ability to supply power to your aftermarket audio system.
Hooker Audio wiring and connections where used in this video.
http://www.hookeraudio.com
The Kinetik Power HC1800 Car Audio battery was used in this video.
http://www.kinetikpower.com
Powered by Maxxsonics
MB Quart Hifonics Crunch Autotek
Duration : 0:6:12
DIY with Mike Stiers
http://www.maxxsonics.com
So you’ve decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come.
Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3.
THE BIG 3
The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this series of upgraded once.
The first of the Big 3 is the positive charging wire from your alternator to your battery positive. This wire must be fused within 12 of the positive battery terminal connection. The fuse value should be equivalent to the maximum amperage your wire can handle, which is based on the size and distance of the wire. If you have an upgraded, high output, alternator you will remove your factory alternator charge wire altogether and use the replacement described above.
The second upgrade for the Big 3 is the engine ground to chassis or in some cases, engine ground to battery negative. This is extremely important because this ground is also what ties the alternator ground, through the engine block, to the vehicle chassis. For this step, you want to add your 0 gauge ground to the existing ground. Just clean the area thoroughly and secure the two grounds using the same bolts and locations if possible.
The final upgrade for the Big 3 is the ground wire from battery negative to chassis. If you do not have access to the frame of the vehicle, dont settle for a piece of sheet metal under the hood, but rather locate the strut tower, remove a nut from the thread, sand all paint and debris, connect the 0 gauge ground using a ring terminal on the thread and tighten the nut down. This strut thread has direct access to the vehicle frame and will provide far less resistance than using sheet metal and relying on spot welds. Leave the factory ground in place and clean any dirt, rust or debris from this connection using sandpaper or a stiff wire brush. Through these three steps, you have successfully made huge progress in improving the electrical systems performance, decreased resistance, and enhanced the ability to supply power to your aftermarket audio system.
Hooker Audio wiring and connections where used in this video.
http://www.hookeraudio.com
The Kinetik Power HC1800 Car Audio battery was used in this video.
http://www.kinetikpower.com
Powered by Maxxsonics
MB Quart Hifonics Crunch Autotek
Duration : 0:6:12