http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto

**Enjoy The Music? Biggest Thanks The Master Of Beats ~ The One & Only Cultivata! Subscribe For More Information On These ORIGINAL CULTIVATA Tracks ~ EXO

Add Me* *
* * http://www.myspace.com/exocontralto * *

Awesome bass while they lasted, But I need the deepest lows, and crazy best bass flex I can get! – with A good bassline Song, There is no such thing as too loud! – The Loudest Is Not Loud Enough! – Bye HP’s! Thanks Meade for the new 18 inch sub!

Soundtrack By ~ Cultivata

Best Bass Songs Ever That I Use!

White Girl – Young Jeezy
Late Nite Tip – 3 6 mafia
Killa Whale – Andre Nickatina
Mean Mug – 3 6 mafia
Put On – Young Jeezy
BME Click – Lil Jon
Thuggin – Webbie
Thug From Around The Way – Slim Thug
Hypnotize – Young Jeezy
Playin With Fire – lil Wayne
Dick Please – lil Wayne
Lost – Gorilla Zoe
Freaky Girl – Gucci Mane
Bricks 4 The High – Dem Franchize Boyz
I’m So Icy – Gucci Mane
Da Blow – Lil Jon
Muscle Cars – E-40
Poor Mans Hydrolics – E-40
On Oil – E-40
Wipe Me Down – Lil Boosie
Lollipop – Lil Wayne
Throw It Up – Lil Jon
A Millie – Lil Wayne with Chopped & Screwed
Hotel Room Service – Pitbull

My Competition Car Audio SPL Bass Installation

Pioneer DEH-P6000ub – Head Unit
Clarion Eqs746 Graphic – Equalizer *ultimate*
(1) Alpine MRP M500 – Class D Monoblock amp
(1) Alpine MRP M1000 – Class D Monoblock amp
(3) Orion HP 12 @ 2 ohms – Subs
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs
(2) Polk DB 5×7’s – Mid Range
(2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Mid Range
Big 3 in 0 Gauge – Stinger / Tsumani Power Wire
(1) MCR 200 amp H/O Alternator
(2) Power Acoustik PCX 5 farad Capacitors

Duration : 0:2:27

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http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto

**Enjoy The Music? Subscribe For More Information On These ORIGINAL Bass Tracks – Cultivata & MC Fathom Phantom**

His New SPL System -

2 DTR1-3400d D Tower Class D MonoBlock Amplifiers
4 SPLX-HX 12’s / 12 Inch Sub Woofers
75 ft 1/0 – 0 Gauge Power Cable
3 C&D Technologies Deep Cycle AGM Batteries
Soundstream Speakers STB Build Install
Two Voltmeter’s – Back & Front
Big Three / 3 Upgrade

Even if you don’t know a lot about installing car audio stereos – You can see how wicked crazy this re-build is ! Besides the insane amount of window & windshield flex , the car was nearly flexing apart! My teeth were rattling like a mofo & my feet were vibrating ~ No “out pops eye” lol , but hey – it sounded extremely good on the lows, and incredible on the door / dash mids & highs – registered the deep tones like a beast , just like most good systems ! You’d think with all that air moving that King Kong was really in this trunk – even with a hair trick – SS Guide – Making Way For The Ultimate Sound Pressure Experience

Ever Need Loud Songs? Increase Your Playlist!
Visit My Top 100 Songs With Bass
How To – Instructional & Tutorial on Channel Page
Make Yourself A System
BassHeads Unite
EXO

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MB Quart proudly releases a line of newly developed RLP shallow mount subwoofers with an ultra-slim design, solid double-roll reinforced steel frame and a powerful magnet system. The RLP series have been specifically designed for small and compact enclosures.

Other outstanding features in this high-quality and acoustically sound line include 3″ voice coils on glass fiber former with an injection molded cone neck support, injection polypropylene flat piston cone for maximum damping and structural rigidity and a ¾” high NBR rubber surround for more cone area and excursion.

With a super low mounting depth of 3″ and extremely compact housing this line is ideal for restricted spaces. The RLP subwoofers bring uncompromisingly powerful bass reproduction to car audio – even in applications where the space available really leaves no room for subwoofers.

RLP subwoofers further include premium features such as single flat poly cotton spiders with woven tinsel lead wires, paintable composite trim ring and custom nickel plated push type terminals.

RLP254 10″ is DVC 4-Ohm and handles 300wrms/600wmaxx.
RLP304 12″ is DVC 4-Ohm and handles 300wrms/600wmaxx.

with Mike Stiers
Powered by Maxxsonics
MB Quart Hifonics Crunch Autotek

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http://www.maxxsonics.com

So you’ve decided to upgrade your car stereo system? A great deal of research and planning should go into this purchase since there is a lot to consider. Do you desire a nice upgrade of your factory speakers, are you looking for a Sound Quality overall of speakers, subwoofers and amplifiers, or are you designing a vision-blurring SPL machine? It is important to make a list of exactly what you are looking to replace or add to your audio system so that you can prepare your electrical system for the investment to come.

Many people do not realize that their vehicles factory electrical system was not designed for aftermarket audio equipment. In fact, most factory electrical systems can only handle an audio system of 600 to 1200 watts. The lower end of the scale being the smaller vehicles and most foreign rides, and the upper end being large trucks and sport utility vehicles. As you increase demand, you need to look at upgrading your battery, alternator and most importantly your Big 3.

THE BIG 3

The Big 3 consists of upgrading three wires under the hood of your vehicle. You can completely replace the three wires detailed below, or simply add additional wires to existing factory wires, the choice is yours. The existing factory wires are generally 8 gauge or smaller and are not designed for the high current demands of an aftermarket audio system. It is recommended that you use a nice insulated 0 gauge wire so that you only have to do this series of upgraded once.

The first of the Big 3 is the positive charging wire from your alternator to your battery positive. This wire must be fused within 12 of the positive battery terminal connection. The fuse value should be equivalent to the maximum amperage your wire can handle, which is based on the size and distance of the wire. If you have an upgraded, high output, alternator you will remove your factory alternator charge wire altogether and use the replacement described above.

The second upgrade for the Big 3 is the engine ground to chassis or in some cases, engine ground to battery negative. This is extremely important because this ground is also what ties the alternator ground, through the engine block, to the vehicle chassis. For this step, you want to add your 0 gauge ground to the existing ground. Just clean the area thoroughly and secure the two grounds using the same bolts and locations if possible.

The final upgrade for the Big 3 is the ground wire from battery negative to chassis. If you do not have access to the frame of the vehicle, dont settle for a piece of sheet metal under the hood, but rather locate the strut tower, remove a nut from the thread, sand all paint and debris, connect the 0 gauge ground using a ring terminal on the thread and tighten the nut down. This strut thread has direct access to the vehicle frame and will provide far less resistance than using sheet metal and relying on spot welds. Leave the factory ground in place and clean any dirt, rust or debris from this connection using sandpaper or a stiff wire brush. Through these three steps, you have successfully made huge progress in improving the electrical systems performance, decreased resistance, and enhanced the ability to supply power to your aftermarket audio system.

Hooker Audio wiring and connections where used in this video.

http://www.hookeraudio.com

The Kinetik Power HC1800 Car Audio battery was used in this video.

http://www.kinetikpower.com

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MB Quart Hifonics Crunch Autotek

Duration : 0:6:12

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http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto

**Enjoy The Music? Subscribe For More Information On These ORIGINAL Tracks – Cultivata & MC Fathom Phantom ~ EXO

My First Car Audio SPL Bass Installation

(1) Alpine MRP 500 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(1) Alpine MRP 1000 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(3) Orion HP 12 @ 2 ohms – Subs
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs
(2) Power Acoustik PCX 5 farad Capacitors
*Same 200 amp H/O Alt*

My Current Competition Car Audio Stereo System

Pioneer DEH-P6000ub – Head Unit
Clarion Eqs746 Graphic EQ – Equalizer *BEST*
(1) DAT Hellfire 2500.1 Class D Mono Amp ( Diablo Audio Technologies ) 3000 + Watts @ 1 ohm
(1) AA / Ascendant Mayhem 18 inch Subwoofer
(1) Single Slot Ported Box Tuned To 32 hz / 6cft
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs & Tweeters
(2) Polk DB 5×7’s – Mid Range Speakers
(2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Mid Range Speakers
(1) MCR 200 amp High Output Alternator
Big 3 in 0 Gauge Cable – Stinger / Tsunami Power Wire

Make Em Know Technology / BassHeads Unite ~ EXO

BTW – *Not Rubberized Undercoating*

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http://www.youtube.com/user/EXOcontralto

**Enjoy The Music? Subscribe For More Information On These ORIGINAL Tracks – Cultivata & MC Fathom Phantom ~ EXO

My First Car Audio SPL Bass Installation

(1) Alpine MRP 500 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(1) Alpine MRP 1000 – Class D Monoblock Amplifier
(3) Orion HP 12 @ 2 ohms – Subs
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs
(2) Power Acoustik PCX 5 farad Capacitors
*Same 200 amp H/O Alt*

My Current Competition Car Audio Stereo System

Pioneer DEH-P6000ub – Head Unit
Clarion Eqs746 Graphic EQ – Equalizer *BEST*
(1) DAT Hellfire 2500.1 Class D Mono Amp ( Diablo Audio Technologies ) 3000 + Watts @ 1 ohm
(1) AA / Ascendant Mayhem 18 inch Subwoofer
(1) Single Slot Ported Box Tuned To 32 hz / 6cft
(2) Orion Cobalt 5.25’s – Highs & Tweeters
(2) Polk DB 5×7’s – Mid Range Speakers
(2) Polk DB 6×9’s – Mid Range Speakers
(1) MCR 200 amp High Output Alternator
Big 3 in 0 Gauge Cable – Stinger / Tsunami Power Wire

Make Em Know Technology / BassHeads Unite ~ EXO

BTW – *Not Rubberized Undercoating*

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